Pedalling Uganda: From Lakes and Gorillas to Lions in Trees (Part 1)

We’re up to something special today, folks, a proper double whammy. This cycling caper through Uganda’s national parks kicks off in our Lake Bunyonyi territory and continues on the Gorilla National Parks side of life!

The hero: Ralph, a member of the British diplomatic corps in Kampala who’s far happier on two wheels than behind a desk. Back in 2018 he, just like that, rode from Cairo to Cape Town!

The first Ugandan adventure: in February he set off from the capital and aimed for Lake Bunyonyi. He detoured through the Ssese Islands, raced giraffes in Lake Mburo and swapped banter with the Ankole cowboys. One brilliant week!

The hook: at Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi he bumped into Miguel from Lebanon and Clemens from Germany. Cue lazy lakeside days filled with world-fixing chats, dog-eared books and impressive amounts of Brenda’s delicious cooking. From strangers to partners in crime in record time!

The consequence: by September Ralph was back, aware of how important great company is. This round he dragged in reinforcements from the UK: Pete, a product designer, and Luke, an energy whizz.

The plan: a week of pedalling through Bwindi and Queen Elizabeth National Parks, finishing at the crater lakes of Fort Portal.

… But, hey, why don’t we let the man speak for himself?!

“Cycling up into Bwindi is incredible. As you pass the gate you are quickly enveloped into canopy cover and the noise — the racket of insects and birds — monkeys climbing around in trees. And suddenly far less people around. The occasional boda boda, a car now and then, but mostly just the noise of the forest. Views out of clouds rolling off the treetops and hillsides. On the practical side, it was a 7-hour mostly upwards ride. Hard work,” writes Ralph especially for you.

By now he had been in Uganda long enough to swear by improvisation. So of course they hadn’t booked any gorilla permits, secretly hoping someone else wouldn’t show up. When we advised them not to aim for Buhoma (the touristy centre of Bwindi) but instead for Ruhija, the odds improved a tad …

Wanna know how that gamble played out? Head over to Part 2 and have a blast!

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