Pedalling Uganda: From Lakes and Gorillas to Lions in Trees (Part 2)

… So, our three cyclists had crashed at Ruhija, a village on the rainforest edge. (If you’ve missed the start of their shenanigans, swing by Part 1).

They woke up full of hope … and, being British, managed to size up the situation with a wry grin: here they were, in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, but without gorilla permits.

Unless … luck decided to take their side.

And sure enough! Some organised souls who’d booked ahead (as you should) didn’t appear, leaving Ralph, Pete and Luke with their golden ticket.

“The hike down into the bush to see the gorillas was so worth the money! We clambered downhill for 30 minutes, before suddenly being presented with a statuesque silverback sitting in front of us. His name was Happy. After eating a few ferns he took our breath away by making a low grunt and walking straight through the middle of us. We then watched for an hour as he, three babies and the rest of the family ate and played in the greenery,” remembers Ralph.

Then they cycled north in the rain, towards warmer, lower lying coffee lands. And they were four in fact! A Ruhija find, Dutchman Jeroen who had been pushing up from South Africa, signed up.

As the storm clouds gathered, thunder rolled and rain began, a kind couple let them camp in their garden. Amazing hospitality for strangers who arrive unexpectedly!

Further north in Queen Elizabeth National Park they were blessed by seeing a full wishlist of animals: leopard, hyena, elephant, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles, countless birds. And then finally a lion in a tree … a slightly scary sight from a bike!

Proceeding in the same direction they had a funny night staying in a new rough-and-ready campsite by Kasese. While they didn’t have showers (which you want after a sweaty day of cycling) they did have hot springs two minutes away.

On their last day they ended at Lake Nkuruba. Another beautiful lake setting to mirror Bunyonyi at the start …

“We were cycling for a week, but time stretches out when you ride all day. You see countless views and have conversations with countless people. You eat an inhuman number of samosas, rolexes and biscuits. It felt like two weeks! Uganda is an incredible place to cycle,” concludes Ralph.

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