Lake Bunyonyi’s Best Street Food (on Water!)

Ever found yourself wondering, “What do fishermen eat before heading out to catch fish?”

Turns out … more fish. At least if you’re hanging around Lake Bunyonyi. Meet Jimmy Betubiza — the local celebrity who’s been slipping into the lake at dawn for over 40 years. He’s 53, but looks like he’s been preserved in fish oil. Born in Rubona Village, up in Kyabahinga, he’s known simply as Jimmy the Fisherman. His specialty? Obuyamba.

Obuyamba — meaning “help” in the lingo of southwestern Uganda — is a tiny silvery fish that Jimmy pulls from the lake using handmade baskets called ebihembo, expertly woven from papyrus reeds.

Across the Gorilla Highlands region these fish (in Rwanda they are known as indugu) are considered a superfood. They’re full of protein and brilliant against kwashiorkor, a nasty case of extreme malnutrition. You can roast them or stew them in groundnut sauce if you’re feeling fancy.

But back to Jimmy. Once he’s wrangled his catch, Jimmy gives them a rinse, a salt sprinkle, then threads them on sticks like fishy kebabs. After a little rest, they’re roasted over open flames until they’re golden, crispy and calling your name. Canoe-drifters often stop for a stick or two, going for just UGX 1,000. Fancy it saltier? Spicier? Crunchier? Jimmy’s your man, and he’ll sort you right out.

His fish are such a big deal, it almost feels rude not to stop. The Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi team thought so, anyway, when we were passing by in our dugout canoe … While Arthur caught up on village gossip, Brenda focused on the important stuff: the fire’s smoky dance, Jimmy’s practiced hands, the peace of lake life. More people trickled in, lured by the scent and the sparkle of community.

Jimmy, ever the gent, posed for photos as he served up his creations. Brenda, caught up in the magic of it all, somehow forgot to eat her fish. But she didn’t mind. The moment was more than enough: rich, real, and perfect for the ‘Gram!