Four Days of Trekking to Gorillas, Upgraded
Claudia and Ralf Bonmann, a lively German couple, dreamed of an authentic and active cultural experience in the southwest of Uganda — a hike that would nicely blend with tracking mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. The Bonmanns talked to Shadows of Africa, a Tanzania-based tour operator, and they contracted the Gorilla Highlands team.
If we know something, we know how to leave tour vans behind and dive into the region through canoe rides and footpaths! Once the itinerary was chosen, an adjustment had to be made: accommodation. Not everyone enjoys roughing it, so camping in villages was replaced by comfy lodges.
The Bonmanns’ first thrill was canoeing across Lake Bunyonyi in a traditional dugout carved from eucalyptus, heading to the Kyabahinga peninsula. Passionate birdwatchers, they loved the feathered spectacle on the way. Next, they were captivated by a healer who shared ancient remedies passed down through generations.
From the hilltop, the expanse revealed almost all Bunyonyi islands. They paddled on to Habukomi Island, where Tom’s Homestay lies, but after a local dinner our travellers returned to the comfort of BirdNest Resort.
Their energy was needed for the next day’s leg through the mystical Echuya Forest. This highland jungle, stretching into Rwanda, is home to the Batwa people. Led by a “Pygmy” leader and his son, the Bonmanns ventured into the grand swamp at its heart. A picnic surrounded by greenery was a perfect pause before heading to Lake Chahafi Resort, skipping our usual camping stop at Lake Kayumbu. The welcome there was unmatched: hot meals, warm beds, and a crackling fire restored their spirits.
Day three brought them to Kisoro town for a tasty lunch, then to a nearby family farm for a full bean-to-brew coffee journey. As the sun set, Claudia and Ralf retreated to the serene Mutanda Lake Resort, ready for the final day. The route to Bwindi’s Rushaga sector ended with a glimpse of the primates ahead. Exhausted but elated, they were ready for the real deal the next day!
… We promise to give Bwindi more love from now on. Our “Virungas” territory has been renamed “Gorilla National Parks” and will embrace it fully.
text & photos by Bright Owen & Brenda Katusiime
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