Mama Nelly: A Pillar of Hospitality on the Congo Nile Trail
Mama Nelly has long been a beloved figure among travellers exploring Rwanda’s Congo Nile Trail (CNT). For years, she’s been offering delicious homemade meals to adventurers passing through her home village of Nkora. Stopping by her modest eatery has meant more than just a taste of traditional Rwandan cuisine; it has provided a genuine connection to the local community.
“Mama Nelly” is how locals affectionately refer to Hadidja Nyirababikira, following a common naming tradition where a mother is known by the name of her youngest child — in this case, Nelly, the last of her four. Now in her 50th year and married to a marine stationed on Lake Kivu, Mama Nelly’s path into hospitality began unexpectedly.
She was unemployed when she first noticed international visitors passing through Nkora. Some would stop to buy bananas, but one day, a guide asked if she could cook something. That request marked the beginning of a new livelihood. As her cooking gained popularity, she received formal hospitality training from the Rwanda Chamber of Commerce, earning a certificate and becoming a trusted host along the trail.
Initially, her focus was on serving lunch to cyclists travelling from Gisenyi toward Kinunu. But our team soon saw broader possibilities. Rather than taking breakfast at the nearby Cyimbili Guesthouse, we began leading hikers on a gentle 15-minute morning walk to enjoy a homemade treat at Mama Nelly’s kitchen.
In late 2024 a government resettlement program moved many Nkora residents from high-risk areas prone to landslides. Mama Nelly was among them! She was relocated to Rubona near the brewery and close to her husband’s workplace. While this move has improved her family’s safety and stability, it also raised concerns about the future of the CNT’s most authentic culinary stop.
Fortunately the spirit of Mama Nelly’s restaurant lives on. Her daughter Devine remains in Nkora and can host smaller groups with advance notice. And for larger, pre-arranged visits, Mama Nelly herself can return by boat or road to offer the same warm welcome and tasty meals.
If you go, don’t miss her sambaza fish — her personal favourite, and a true local delicacy.
text & photos by Enock Musabyimana & ML Rwebandira
